*This is a list of suggestions as a useful reference. Not intended to be professional advice or a complete list of instructions. If you have any input or feedback, please Contact Us : )
1. If you are climbing and there’s a slower party in front of you. Gently ask them if you can pass them in a mutually-decided safe spot. It might or might not be possible depending on the climb and the personalities of those climbers. Don’t draw out the knife till dinner time. Likewise, if there’s a faster party behind you and the leader is stepping on your toes already, gently ask them if they want to pass in a mutually-decided safe spot. Safety is ALWAYS NO. 1 PRIORITY. If it couldn’t be done safely, there’s nothing you/they can do. According to existing informal rule, the climbers above have the right of way. But real life is not so black and white.
Cragging in General
1. Be mindful of other climbers who are leading a scary run-out lead of their life-time with big fall potential where mental concentration is much needed. Tune down volume of happiness and craziness according to circumstances.
2. If you arrive in Everest army troop style e.g. 10+ person-group, be ultra-sensitive and respectful. Put your bags and gear in an area that won’t take up valuable belay and seating spots. Don’t dominate the wall. Don’t bring stereo. Don’t kill people.
3. If you set up a top rope and there’re other climbers around, climb it and do not leave it unclimbed for an extended period of time e.g. more than 5 minutes, unless your group is the only climbers at that area. Don’t dominate the route. Climb it a few times and gently ask the other climbers if they want to climb it. If they want to, offer to pull your rope or (if both you and them are willing) offer them to top rope on your top rope. If they don’t want to, keep climbing ad enjoy.
1. In Squamish, generally climbers don’t like seeing people free-soloing a route. If you want to free-solo, do it when there’s nobody around. If you see someone free-soloing, climbing shoe-less or whatever to impress their boy/girlfriend, teach them a lesson and tell them to grow up. If you see someone doing something incredibly unsafe, leave or talk to them. It’s better to be sorry and awkward than regretting not saying anything after the accident.
Teaching climbing skills
1. If someone isn’t comfortable climbing a certain route and trying something that they don’t know, you have no obligation to teach. At the same time, if you want to share your knowledge/experience with a particular person, this is awesome and you are being very virtuous and admirable. Just be mindful of the breadth and limitations of your sharing/teaching and your increased responsibility/liability. For example, I have seen a person teaching his friend lead belay in 5min and the friend’s lead belaying right afterwards (which is way too short for the amount of knowledge and practice needed). Sometimes it’s better to teach everything or not to teach at all. On top of that, It’s always good to refer them to resources e.g. Squamish Rock Guide, Canada West Mountain School, West Coast Mountaineers, etc.
1. If you found any lost gear, be mindful of how many hours the owner have starved in order to afford the gear and so virtuously post on the board (the physical board at the climbing area e.g. if you are climbing in smoke bluffs, there’s a board at the parking lot) and post on squamishclimbing.com, rockclimbing.com, cascadeclimbing.com, etc. If nobody claims it, it’s yours. Karma will reward you next time you lose your gear.